Santiago de Compostela: Rest and All You Can Eat, Beer and Cry Day, # 4
Day 28 - 29, Santiago de Compostela
Here’s the punch line. We’re not exactly done. Although we have finished the Camino de Santiago, we still have three days to Fisterra, the Spanish coast, and one day to Muxia, the place where the angels brought the Virgin Mary to help Santiago (aka, St James.) Who in their right mind would miss that?
About walking 40km on our last Camino day. It was like Airport Walking, that crazy sensation you get while walking at the same time as riding the horizontal escalators at the airport. If you have been packing 20+ pounds in your backpack for a month and suddenly lose that weight for a day because you wisely decided to ship your pack ahead, frankly, it’s like flying.
Today was overwhelming. We started at the pilgrim office with a beautiful black priest who asked me how my Camino was. I’m sure he’s seen it before, but the tears just couldn’t be denied. He seemed to be quite deliberate in filling out my certificate which I liked to think was because I was so sincere. But it did cross my mind he was simply new to the job.
Our morning continued to the recently reopened Portico of Glory, like, yesterday recently reopened, after four years of scaffolding and renovations. This is just inside of the main door to the Cathedral, and it was huge deal. However, nothing-but-nothing compares to the sheer amusement and delight of watching the swinging of the botafumeiro. The rate at which the iPhones came flying out was a sight in itself. This purification ritual is done at the end of the Pilgrim mass held at noon. The incense is lit, and the botafumeiro is hoisted into the air by four priest who proceed to swing it like a bell, pulling the ropes down and up. However, there’s a hitch. It’s not guaranteed as a patron has to pony-up, as in make an offering, for this show to go on. We got lucky. It’s is a complete show stopper and not to be missed if you ever get the chance (video at the bottom).
See below for photos with descriptions of the past two days.
©Theresa Elliott, All Rights Reserved